Address: Maidensgrove, Nr Henleyon-Thames, Oxon, RG9 6EX

Telephone number: 01491 641 282

Website: www.thefivehorseshoes.co.uk

Date of visit: 27 July 2010

Approximate cost per head: Around £20 for 2 courses

Comments on wine list/beer: Brakspear (£3 a pint of ordinary). Wines list is simple but good on French and reasonably priced

Summary:

This pub is in the middle of nowhere. It is impossible to come across it by accident. In fact, you have to go out of your way to look for it.

It is sited down a single track road off  B480 at Stoner. Although the address is Maidensgrove, you actually go pass Maidensgrove and aim for Upper Maidensgrove.

The restaurant/pub is listed in several guides including Sawday’s and Harden’s – so I thought that I’ll check it out.

Outside the pub are an array of wooden tables – well spaced apart. Inside there are 2 bars and a restaurant.

The menu is pretty British and Countryside. There are venison and steak on the menu – a single pager. I went for the doorstop sandwich (£7.50) – I asked for smoked ham but am sure that I got roast pork instead.

The sandwich came as two halves of multigrain bread stuffed with salad and meat. The sandwich is served on a wooden board with a side salad of undressed continental leaves. You also get a bowl of chips.

The chips must be one of the best thick cut chips I have ever eaten. They were crisp on the outside and soft on the inside. They were not broken down on the edge through over boiling like triple cooked chips.

I noticed that they were also advertising pizza from the wood burning oven – only available at weekends.

I have to admit that I was impressed and will soon be back to test out the pizza and the main menu.

I will also take this opportunity to warn you about the road – it is very narrow and dangerous when it’s dark.

E

Address: 126 West Street, Marlow , SL7 2BP

Telephone number: 01628 482277

Website: www.thehandandflowers.co.uk

Date of visit: 8 May 2010

Approximate cost per head: Approx £40 for 3 courses

Comments on wine list/beer: Excellent list.

Summary:

I have been here on 4 separate occasions during lunch time. I thought that it is time to test out their evening performance.

To start with, the place was packed and on some tables, they managed 2 sittings. I was told that their busiest night is Saturday.

Lets start with the positives: the bread is as good as ever and is served ward. You get  the complimentary deep fried whitebaits which were excellent – in fact, I have had this on every visit. So it does not change. Service was good.

On the negative side, the chips were not as crisp as they normally are. The description on the menu is also not 100% accurate. However, these were minor faults.

We had a mixture of starters, salmon tartar, mouls, omelette with smoke haddock. The omelette was in fact the famous Arnold Bennet omelette (invented in the Savoy Grill for the great man) served in a small frying pan. It was pretty filling and was as expected. The moules  were served with a Guinness foam – we were warned about this – I am not sure this works as it add a bitterness to the sweet mussels cooked as moules a la marinier. The salmon tartar turned out to be a salmon mousse sitting on a bed of finely chopped raw salmon mixed with vegetables – much like a mirepoix. In fact there was more mousse than raw salmon.

For main courses, we had the fillet steak, braised shin of beef, pork loin and plaice. The shin of beef was covered in a heavily reduced gelatinous dark sauce and shelled broad beans. The meat fell apart when I touched it with a fork. The steaks were given top marks except that it was done British style – the rare turned out to be medium and medium became well done. The fish and pork also went down well with the side order of “selection of vegetables”.

All these were washed down with two bottles of wine – Abarino (£38.20) and Faugeres (£59). Both wines were excellent.

For desert we had crème brulee and chocolate tart. The came brulee came in a bowl the size of a Chinese rice bowl and the chocolate tart was a wonderful invention. The base was a piece of biscuit. On top of this was a runny chocolate mousse encaed in dark chocolate. This was the covered by layers of chocolates – dark, white, milk and in it sat a white chocolate malted ice cream. Deserts were £8 each.

For 7 the bill came to just over £385 (incl service charge). It was a  pretty good meal for just over £50 a head including booze.

E

PS They do not serve their famous fish and chips on a Saturday night.

Address: Binfield Heath, Oxfordshire, RG9 4JI

Telephone number: 01491575755

Website: http://www.thebottleandglassinn.com/

Date of visit: 7 May 2010

Approximate cost per head:  Nearly all main meals under £10 except sea bass at £12.95 and steak at £17.95

Comments on wine list/beer: Didn’t see a wine list, wines available by the glass, Breakspear £3 a pint

Summary:

I used to come here on a regular basis in the mid 70s when I was a postgrad at Reading University.

In those days, they did scampi and chips and steak and chips – both under a fiver and significantly better than those served at Berni Inns.

Alias, Berni Inn is no more although the next generation of cheap steakhouses- Beefeaters – are still around.

Bottle and Glass’s cuisine has already moved on as they are under new management although the décor and furniture (inside and outside) have stayed nearly the same. There are two bars, the public one has long tables and benches or chairs and there is a sofa in the lounge bar (that’s new!). There are only one set of toilets accessed via the lounge bar.

The menu is a simple one and there is a lunch as well as a supper version. Sandwiches at £4 and all puds also priced at £4. The main courses range from spaghetti bolognese to sausage and mash. I had the fish and chips off the lunch menu priced at £6.60 (£9.50 in the evening).

The fish – a pretty big piece – and chips were excellent. To start with, you get proper french fries not chunky chips. The batter was light and the peas were previously frozen – more and more places are introducing sweetened pea puree or mushy peas. Mushy I like but not the sweetened puree. In fact the Hand and Flowers (Marlow) serves sweetened pea puree with their “famous” fish and chips. You also get pea puree at the St George and Dragon (Wargrave) and The Royal Oak (Paley Street).

It’s certainly worth a visit.

E

Location: 21 Decembrie 1989 Blvd, Cluj-Napoca, Romania

Web site: http://www.casaardeleana.com/

Telephone number: +40 (0)264 439 451

Date of visit: 07/04/2010

Approx. cost per head: €10 – very good value

Comments on wine list/beer: Romanian, and rather good

Review:
Casa Ardeleană in Cluj-Napoca, Transylvania bills itself as a traditional restaurant and seems to live up to this promise as far as I was able to tell, which wasn’t very far. The decor and atmosphere are rural and no-nonsense respectively.

The starter, a mixed plate of cheeses, meats and salad with chunky bread, and ostensibly for two, fed four of us easily. Particularly nice were the goat’s cheese and, surprisingly, the pork fat (although the deep-fried pork fat was not so delicious!). My Transylvanian friend recommended that the pork fat be eaten with onions, which proved a good combination. As it turns out they really do eat lots of onions and garlic in this neck of the woods.

The above was accompanied by a shot of the local plum brandy which, at 52% proof, is not for the faint-hearted, as well as a very-nice Romanian red, of which more below.

Romania has a lot in common with those other countries in Europe where romance languages are spoken. Wine is produced and drunk in high quantities, digestifs are very popular, and, I am reliably informed, Romania has more types of cheese than France. The Romanian word for thank you—multumesc—is also often replaced by the word “merci” by the locals.

For the main course one of us had a lamb kebab which looked very nice, while the rest of us had beef steak presented on a hot stone. The meat is served quite raw and one simply slices it and waits for it to cook to one’s liking before getting started. I enjoyed this self-cook method, and the meat was of a high quality. This came with various side dishes including mushrooms, chips and a basic salad.

It just so happened that another round of rum brandy was served, as was a second bottle of an excellent local 2007 Pinot Noir. The grapes were from Moldova (the region as opposed to the neighbouring country, the Republic of Moldova, which is historically, ethnically and culturally, yet no longer politically, joined with Romanian Moldova). The provenance of the grapes is clearly important, as it was something my local companion was keen to point out.

The wine went by the splendid name “Immortality Pinot Noir – The Legend of Transylvania”.

There was no room for pudding.

- Damian (d@staffordnet.org.uk)

Address: second floor, JP Plaza, 22-36 Patwerson St, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong

Telephone number: + (852) 2881 8012

Website: http://www.outback.com.hk/2008/locations/JPPlaza.asp

Date of visit: March 2010

Approximate cost per head for 2 courses: $200+ ($11.30=£1)

Comments on wine list/beer: Moderately expensive mainly Aussie/NZ wine list, try the carafe (125ml) for $80 – buy one get one free before 7pm. The house red was young and pretty acid.

Summary:

This is a chain of steakhouse across HK. The beef is prime US beef not Australian.

Although the front of this branch looked small, it’s pretty deep and would serve over 100 covers. The front also has a bar.

The steaks/ ribs start at $150.

Overall, the service was very slow. The warm bread (a dark ryish bread that was sweet) was produced after the starters arrived – you get a “house soup” or salad with your main course. The wine only arrived with the starter and not before.

The ribeye that I had was quite spicy – it had a dry rub on it. It was medium and was  probably dry aged as there was a  lack of blood. The chips were over salted and the cole slaw was OK.

There is not a lot I can tell you about this place other than its fine for the price, the beef was tender but that’s about it – its neither good nor bad. Go there if you happened to be in the area and is sick of chinese food.

E

Address: Galllowstree Road, Sonning Common, RG9 5HT. Note: some pub guide puts the pub in Rotherfield Peppard rather than Sonning Common.

Telephone number: 01189722227

Website: N/A

Date of visit:  29 February 2010

Approximate cost per head: From £10

Comments on wine list/beer: Bombadier or Black Sheep, extensive wine list at usual mark up.

Summary:

This is celebrity chef AWT’s pub.

The view from the outside suggests that it an old, slightly run down building – huge puddles in the car park.

On the inside, the pub is divided into two areas, a bar side and a large restaurant in a converted barn with high ceiling. It’s obvious that people come here to eat as the beer is not the attraction.

I sat in the bar side and noticed that there were crumbs on the table – not a good sign as I was first one in through the door at noon.

They operate a set meal and an a la carte. The black boards just tell you that the set meal is different every day but set formula e.g. roast on a Sunday ….They have a 8 for 8 policy which mean that you can have one course from the set  menu at £8 (lunch till 8pm), £10 for 2 courses and £12 for 3 courses.

I opted for the steak tartar on the a la carte menu. You can have this as a starter with melba toast or as a main course with chips (£12.95). I had a pint of black sheep (£3) with it.

The steak came on a plate with a smallish side salad and a bowl of frites cut into aluminates sprinkled with coarse salt. Luckily it was not too salty.

Now, the steak tartar is probably the best I have eaten for a very long time. It was coarsely chopped up instead of minced. They used green peppercorns instead of  capers and it was seasoned right. I did not have “food” poisoning the next day which is also good as steak tartar can be very dodgy as it is based on raw meat with raw egg.

I will have to go back and test out the other dishes as he is famous for his “grilled meat” dishes.

Eddie

PS (14 July 2010)

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/foodanddrinknews/7885226/Antony-Worrall-Thompsons-gastropub-given-one-hygiene-star.html

Address: Marsh Benham, (off A4 Newbury – Hungerford), RG20 *LY

Telephone number: 01635 582017

Website: www.theredhousepub.com

Date of visit: 12 December 2009

Approximate cost per head: £15 – £75

Comments on wine list/beer:  West Berkshire Beer, above average global wine list majoring on non french wines

Summary:

This is another Sawday’s recommended pub.

I was travelling between Newbury and Hungerford when I saw the sign for The Red House so I followed it –I was not looking for it.

First impression was that the garden was well kept – you have to walk through the garden to reach the pub.

The pub has a L shaped bar with a restaurant attached to the L to make it into a U. The walls are painted a maroon red colour.

As soon as I entered, I was met with a waitress who showed me to a table in the pub section – this is a new experience for me in the UK. There is no table cloth in the pub section but you get a proper napkin.

The menu is very interesting with a selection of mini scotch eggs and pies at £2 a portion as a bar snack.

The main menu offers anything from ham egg and chips via lamb shank to fillet steak (£25). In between, there are specialist pies and puddings (around £12) made within the kitchen.

I settled for the scotch eggs to start with, followed by cauliflower au gratin with ham.

Two mini scotch eggs (quail egg) appeared – hot and deep fried. The sausage meat was fine but the egg  yolk  was “hard”. This does not compare with the scotch egg at The Royal Oak (Paley Street – owned by Michael Parkinson and yes, the village is called Paley Street) where the yolk is always runny – I have eaten it on 5 separate occasions and the yolk is always runny.

The Cauliflower au gratin came with a very generous of peas and chips. The chips were very slightly salted.

The overall bill with two pints (waitress service) came to £16.35. The Cauli was £8.95 and the beer was £2.70 a pint.

Overall, it was very good food at a very reasonable price. However, as I was leaving, I was handed a leaflet – apparently, the chef offers a 5 course Chef’s table dinner on the first and third Monday every month at £75 a head – this includes wine with every course. I am tempted.

Eddie

I hardly ever choose steak in a restaurant because I can cook it better and cheaper than any restaurant I have ever eaten in. The exception being black pepper steak in Hong Kong.

There are several ways to cook steak and several cuts. The secret is the meat  – quality and quantity, the intensity of the heat and resting.

Grill:

My favourite is the Cote de Boeuf with the rib eye attached to the bone. Get a whole rib (like a chop). It will weight in at about a kilo. If possible get grass eating cow from the Scotland. My favourite is Orkney Gold from Vickers (Reading). It works out at £15 per chop. Next, rub Jamican dry jerk on the meat and leave for a hour. Grill the steak over white hot charcoal – use plenty of charcoal as this is a crucial step. Grill the steak for 5 minutes each side – it will go black!

Next, rest the steak in a pre- heated oven. Low (>100 degrees C) for 15 minutes if you want your steak rare. For medium steak (175 degrees C ) for 15 minutes then leave in a warm place for 10 minutes. For well done steak (works with ribs as its fatty), leave in the over at 175 for 30 minutes, then 10 minutes of rest in a warm place. Serve – good for 1 to 3 persons depending on appetite.

Serve with “Triple Cooked ” chips. Boil thickly cut chips – you should get 9 chips per potato ( baking potato size). Use a good chip potato such as maris piper. Boil for 10 minutes, drain and leave in a colander for an hour plus. Next, deep fry at 130 degrees C  untill the potato turn slightly golden brown – approx 10 minutes. Let the chips  cool. Deep fry the chips at 190 degrees C  just before serving to a deep golden brown colour – approx 5 minutes. The right temperature is key!

Pan Fried and flambe steak.

I would use sirloin, fillet and skirt here. Again, you need a big piece. Anything less than 300g will not cook properly. It is better to cook a bigger piece 500g and serve it cut up to 2 people. With skirt, give it a good basking with a mallet first. I don’t like rump for grilling.

Fry the steak in oil or butter – it must be bubbling. Or use a cast iron grill pan with a light spray of oil. Heat for 3 minutes each side to get a rare steak, longer for medium. Poke the steak – if it gives slightly, it is medium. As it approach well done, the meat will firm out. Try experimenting and you will soon get the “knowledge” which you can use forever!

Take the steak out and let it rest for 10 minutes before serving. You can serve it with a sauce

To make the sauce

Pour a shot of brandy into the pan (needs to be hot) that you cooked the steak in and ignite it. When the flame dies down:

Red wine sauce – add a glass of red and half a glass of brown stock (another article) or use a stock cube. Let the whole thing bubble until it is reduced and thicken up – taste and season – and pour over steak and serve. I  use about a qtr teaspoon of salt for seasoning.

Black pepper sauce – throw into the hot pan half a glass of crushed black peppercorns (not grind because you need the texture). Add a dribble of oil if its too dry. Cook this for a minute. Now add a glass of brown stock and let it bubble. Reduce to half original volume. Add qtr teaspoon of salt to the sauce, stirr and toss the steak back into the pan to coat it with the sauce. Serve.

Eddie

Dec 2009

Location:

Telephone number: 0207 490 1676

Website: www.gauchorestaurants.com

Date of visit: 25 November 2009

Approximate cost per head: £45+

Comments on wine list/beer: Very extensive and expensive wine list especially Argentinean wines

Summary:
This restaurant occupies a large room between Smihfield Market and the Barbican.

There are two kitchens, an open grill on show to the diners and one at the back where they prepare the additional parts to the meal.

The room is “darkish” with black tables and chairs covered in black and white hides and it is part of an upmarket chain of steakhouses.

On the day we went, the place was half full with diners mainly on expense accounts.

The steaks start at 250g and goesw up to 400g. You have a choice between rump, ribeye, sirloin and fillet. You then add potatoes, vegetables, sauces etc. There are other dishes on the menu such as empanadaes  and several  Argentinean dishes etc. The meat is brought to the table on a block of wood – just in case you do not know what cut you want or is not aware of the amount of fat on the different cuts. You can also have their version of mixed grill at £39 or a sample platter of the different steaks.

We chose fillet, ribeye and rump between us.

My ‘medium’ rump was cooked on the rare side – they are using US definition instead of UK definition. The steak was well seasoned and well cooked. However, I then had the saltiest chips and vegetables I have had for a while. I do not know if the chef had an off day or he/she preferred to go OTT. I did not complain as our “friends” were obviously happy with the amount of salt. So beware!

The wine list is something to behold. There are pages of Argentinean wines listed by the type of grapes as well as the usual “old world” wines. They also showed the altitude next to the vineyard – completely meaningless to me even though my understanding is that the higher we go, the cooler it gets. We had a bottle of Cab which was excellent.

On the whole, it was a good meal but restaurants need to understand that there are a few of us that are trying to reduce our intake of salt.

Eddie

Location: 1661 Granville St, Vancouver, Canada, V6Z 1N3. (Just under the bridge, north shore of False Creek)

Telephone number: +(1) 604 637 0388

Website: www.stonegrillvancouver.com

Date of visit: 30 October 2009

Approximate cost per head (2 courses): C$ 45

Comments on wine list/beer: Ok list, mainly American (North and South) and Canadian wines. Interesting list of bottle beers.

Summary:
This is a “new” restaurant with a fantastic view over False Crook.

The idea is that you have your main course cooked in front of you (by you) on a piece of super heated granite whilst you eat.

The granite came on a dish separated into 3 compartments. The stone was in the middle with the fish or meat on it and the side compartments had the potato and veg.

I had the Scallops and Prawns and with it came 2 super size chips, a single cauliflower, broccoli floret and a piece of pepper.

The meal came sizzling (yes, think Chinese or Indian sizzling dishes but with a stone in stead of a cast iron dish). However, the materials were raw and the stone retained its heat for over 30 minutes. I had to wait about 2 minutes for the food to cook but then here was the rub, the food will continue to cook so by the end of the meal, I had rubbery (over cooked) scallops and prawns. My companion had the steak which was a slab of 2 inch thick fillet. Again, the meat was raw to start with and was well done by the end of the meal.

I really don’t see the point of this style of cooking – it’s just a gimmick! The portions were over generous re the protein part and the “meats” came au nature – unmarinated or seasoned. On the night we went (Friday), the place was less than 20% full. I doubt very much as to whether it will still be here when I next visit Vancouver.

 Eddie@bottlesandcooks.com