Address: Basement 115-117 Collins Street, Melbourne 3000, Victoria, Australia

Telephone number: +61 3 9639 1553

Website: www.fifteenmelbourne.com.au

Date of visit: 15 July 2010

Approximate cost per head: A$ 50 plus for 2 courses

Comments on wine list/beer: N/A

Summary:

Judging by the media coverage and hype that this place opened up to, it appears that Jamie Oliver’s celebrity status is no less down under than it is in the UK. His books are best-sellers down here, and his toothy grin adorns billboards and TV screens across the country on what feels like an alarming frequency.

The restaurant concept here is no different to the other ‘Fifteens’ in existence (this one being the fourth opening after Hoxton in London, Amsterdam and Watergate Bay in Cornwall. The principle being that the restaurant offers apprenticeship opportunities in catering and hospitality to disadvantaged young people. The restaurants then seek to raise awareness of the importance of nutritious food and cooking. 

It’s an admirable cause, and it’s one than I am happy to support, yet I’m still not convinced that it works. This was my third Fifteen experience, having previously dined at the original estabishment in London, and then Cornwall. My issue is not about the concept, or even the food, but it’s the service – or lack of it judging by my experiences – that let’s it down.

Taking a group of essentially young kids, most of whom have never cared one jot about service and delivery and then teach them the benefits of nutrition and eating well, that’s fine. But serving people, showing empathy and customer understanding are interpersonal skills that generally come about as a consequence of education, discipline or breeding. And on my evidence I’ve just not seen it. Front of house is usually fine and welcoming, and you are shown to your table (or seat at the communal dining bar in my recent Melbourne visit), and then it starts to go downhill. I ask for a beer which comes quickly, then wait for what seems an eternity before eventually attracting someones attention just to ask for a menu!

The menu follows the Fifteen formula of half-a-dozen dishes in each of three sections, antipasti, primi and secondi. Antipasti and primi dishes are priced around $20 each (approx 14 GBP), while secondi mains are priced around $35 (approx 23 GBP). I order a Yellowfin Tuna starter ‘prepared three ways’, followed by a Jerusalem artichoke risotto with Hervey Bay scallops crisp pancetta and sorel cress. To accompany I order a glass of Grosset Watervale Riesling – to be served with my main course.

The tuna starter arrives fairly promptly, and comprises tartare, bresaola and carpaccio. The bresaola is very dry and too salty, thankfully I still had some beer to wash it down with. The carpaccio was delicious, and the tartare beautifully prepared, so two-out-of-three not bad.

I then wait, and wait, and wait for my main. Even the belated arrival of the white wine wasn’t accompanied or immediately followed any food. I ask politely what has happened to my main. Not my original server, always a mistake. Clearly the message didn’t register. I ask what looks like a more important apprentice. As my seat is close to the openview kitchen I can see an agitated discussion taking place, clearly my order has not been made. No apology, just an offer of more bread. Close to an hour after my starter the risotto arrives straight from the hob, still steaming. Sadly the wait wasn’t rewarded with a worthwhile flavour experience. The risotto was ok, but that’s all I could say about it, it wasn’t well seasoned, quite bland in fact, although the crispy pancetta was nice and the scallop nicely caramelised.

A strong coffee followed, along with the bill. Again no apology for the slow service, so despite admiration for the cause and my normally charitable nature I decide not to add a tip. I left disappointed, just as I had the first time in London, and for the very same reason. Cornwall had built my belief back up after a lovely dinner there with my wife and a couple of good friends. Fifteen Melbourne has got me all confused again! Sorry Jamie, but this wasn’t pukka!

Paul Plant