Restaurants and pubs

Here you'll find reviews of restaurants and pubs.

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  • 15Oct

    Address: 85 Tenth Ave, (16th Street), New York, NY, USA

    Telephone number: +1 212497 8090

    Website: http://www.delposto.com

    Date of visit: 12 October 2010

    Price guide : $70 for 2 courses

    Comments on wine and beer: Huge list, good selection of decent Italian and US wines. You can just about get a reasonable bottle from $70

    Summary:

    This is another “top end” NY (Italain) restaurant from the Batali-Bastianich team.

    The architecture of this place is amazing. In the Zagat guide, it is described as a marble and mahogany palazzo. Like Per Se, the place was packed out. However, this is a much larger venue and is able to accommodate over a hundred diners in the main dining room.

    The service was fine but not great. For example, we had to wait ages for our bread. When it arrived, it was a basket of warm bread served with butter and “pork fat”. We had to ask for olive oil as a dip.

    The menu was an interesting one offering “degustation” of 5 courses at $95 or 7 courses at $125. Pairing of food and wine was also on offer at $105 plus. However, if you simply want a starter and/or a main course, it is $30 for any of the starters/antipasti/pasta and $40 for a main course.

    The  freebie from the chef consisted of 3 parts – a ball of chopped prosciutto mixed in some sauce and covered in bread crumbs, crispy wafer thin oven dried salmon and a gazpecho. It was a strange combination for an Italian but then very few restaurants serve authentic native food any more. The Gazpacho was slightly on the salty vinegary side because of a dose of capers.

    For starters I had the deep fried squid whilst my family had the crab pasta. My sister told me the pasta was fantastic. I tasted a bit and found that it was crunchy because of the addition of finely chopped raw onions to the pasta. To me, it was a bit on the mild side as I would have added more chillies and seafood oil (heat crab shells and or prawn shells and or lobster shells covered in olive oil with a clove of garlic at 70 degrees centigrade for 20 minutes, filter and use ) to the pasta. My squid was fine. It was coated with polenta which makes it crunchier and less oily than bread crumbs. It was served with a mild oil infused with chillies and capers.

    For main course, the family had the turbot and the Italian sea food stew. I had the gnocchi with shaven truffles.

    My dish was a story on its own. The waiter advised early on, that the day’s special was fresh white truffles at $10 a gram on risotto or pasta. They serve 5 grams for a starter and 10 grams for a main course. I asked for it on spaghetti or rigatoni. After negotiating with the kitchen, the waiter informed me that the chef is only prepared to serve it over gnocchi, stuffed pasta (with ricotta) or risotto. I had to settle for gnocchi.

    When it came, the gnocchi was tossed in butter and the waiter had a lump of truffle about the size of a small potato. He proceeded to shave the truffle and then asked me if that was enough. As I have no clue of what 10 grams of shaven truffle looks like, I said a bit more. When the bill came, apparently, I had 20 grams of truffle and we were charged $200. The gnocchi was priced at $40. So, the whole dish came to $240 – easily by a significant margin as the most expensive food I have ever eaten in the World. The previous record was €158 for Besse Chicken cooked in a pig’s bladder with truffles at Paul Bucouse’s restaurant in Lyon (2004). Someone else paid!

    Being ungrateful, I have to say that it wasn’t that wonderful. When I had truffles before, I never had enough to pass judgement. My conclusion is that it is over rated. In fact, you get a far better deal using truffle oil and porcini mushrooms.  Apparently the other two dishes ordered by my family were pretty good.

    We had a bottle of Antinori  Chianti Classical Reserva 2005 with the meal. At $75, it was apparently too cheap for them to offer to decant the wine. This was a mistake as the wine improved significantly when it was down to the last third. We would have enjoyed the wine better if it was allowed to air.

    Well, I have to say that I thought that it was a rip off. If they serve 10grams with the main course, then offer 10 grams rather than their current approach. I didn’t get it with regards to the pasta. Why was I offered plain gnocchi and not plain pasta? You can buy fresh gnocchi for less than $5 in a supermarket – it was $40! Was there some secret and ultra expensive ingredient that I missed?

    I think my family enjoyed their meal. My poor sister paid and I am not going to buy any more Mario Batali cookware or cookbooks.

    E

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  • 16Jul

    Address: 80 Bourke Street,Melbourne 3000, Victoria, Australia

    Telephone number: +61 3 9662 1811

    Website: www.grossi.com.au

    Date of visit: 13 July 2010

    Approximate cost per head:  N/A

    Comments on wine list/beer: N/A

    Summary:

    Whilst on business in Melbourne I was fortunate enough to be taken to lunch at what is widely considered by the local food afficionados as the city’s quintessential Italian restaurant.

    Located in the Central Business District (CBD), in the vibrant Bourke Hill Precinct, close to Chinatown, the restaurant endures an iconic local and country-wide reputation. Followers of the Australian food scene together with celebrities, captains of business and visiting dignitaries jostle for a table in order to enjoy the fabulous food and enduring Italian Hospitality served up by celebrity chef Guy Grossi and his expertly organised team.

    The service is slick yet unhurried, conscious that some business diners do have to return to their desks in the afternoon, although there were plenty of diners around us who clearly had no such intention. The menu offers a broad range of options across as many courses as you have time, appetite or budget for. For us it was just entrees and mains, which was plenty for a business lunch.

    The homebaked grissini and breads, served with beautifully aromatic olive oil soon got the tastebuds worked up in anticipation for my starter of oxtail risotto. The portion was a decent size – it could have easily satisfied many people as a main course, however it set me up perfectly for my main of grilled crispy-skin hapuka with braised shallots and salsa, served with a side of steamed spinach. Hapuka is a member of the grouper family and is common to the waters of New Zealand. It has beautiful white flesh and a flavour not too dissimilar to sea bass, although the cut is slightly thicker. The skin was delightfully crispy, almost a fishy equivalent of pork crackling, and the salsa accompaniment really worked well.

    We accompanied the meal with a deliciously refreshing South Australian Riesling (sorry, but the name escapes me), deliciously dry yet with plenty of depth and nice, clean fruit.

    I wasn’t paying the bill, yet from a glance at the menu the prices, whilst not extortionate, suggest that this is somewhere you come to celebrate, to reward yourself, to impress, or just to pay homage to a chef with an obvious passion for excellence. The restaurant prides itself on its sustainability philosophy, together with a commitment to source best ingredients produced by like-minded local suppliers. There was plenty of Italian flair and technique on show, accompanied with some nice innovative touches.

    Definitely a place to return to, only next time I fear I might be the one who’s paying!

    Paul Plant

    PS The restaurant is open from 7.30 till late

     

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  • 12Mar

    Address: 3 Queens Walk, Reading, RG1 7QF (Queens Walk is next to the Penta Hotel)

     

    Telephone number: 0118 959 7700

     

    Website: www.pepesale.co.uk

     

    Date of visit: 10 March 2010

     

    Approximate cost per head for 2 courses: £20

     

    Comments on wine list/beer: Peroni on tap. Very good value Italian list with a  good selection of Sicilian/Sardinian wines. The manager, Marco, is a real foodie ad he knows his wines. Ask him for a recommendation. He usually offers something around £20.

     

    Summary:

     

    Pepe Salle has been around for near 10 years. Its previous incarnations (different owners) were French and Portuguese. Both lasted only a couple of years.

     

    I used to come here a lot when I was working across the road. This is my first visit in nearly 12 months.

     

    The first impression is that there is no change. It is still brightly lit with the restaurant on 2 levels – separated by 4 feet of stairs. The “downstairs” dining room is bigger and tends to be noisier as the sound bounces off the walls and the tiled floor.

     

    For starters, we had gamberoni arrabbiata, avacardo e fungi and the special of the day, oyster mushrooms cooked in garlic butter and served on crisp thin bread (carta de piano)

     http://www.italianfoodforever.com/iff2008/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=464:sardinianflatbread&catid=47:cbreads&Itemid=65 .

    The mushroom was cooked just right – still el dente and juicy not shrivelled up or chewy.

     

    For main course, we had ravioli ricotta, mallorreddo (small spiral pasta served in a sausage meat and spicy tomato sauce) fegato al balsamico (calves’ liver) and spaghetti bottarga (spaghetti with shaven mullet roe cooked in garlic butter).

     

    Pepe Salle is a Sardinian Italian restaurant; their best dishes are mushrooms and pasta. When in season, Marco regularly forages for wild mushrooms. I have had great English porcini mushrooms here. Their pasta is always cooked right and comes with great sauces. My regular dishes are the ravioli and spaghetti bottarga.

     

    The whole lot was washed down with two bottles of vermentino di gall – crisp and fresh at £18.90 a bottle.

     

    The bill for 4 including bread and side salads came to £126.60 (excluding service). The food here is still as good as ever. They remain my favourite Italian.

     

    Eddie

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  • 10Feb
    Name of restaurant or pub: Mari e Monti

    Location: First Floor, The Walk,  19-23 Kings Road, Reading, RG1 2HG

    Web site: http://www.mariemontirestaurant.co.uk/Home.php

    Telephone number: 0118 950 0070

    Date of visit: 30 January 2010

    Approx. cost per head: £20

    Comments on wine list/beer: A reasonable selection of mid priced red and white wines, alongside several more expensive vintages.

    Media link:

    Review:

    Reading and the surrounding area is home to a selection of forgettable Italian restaurants. Mari e Monti is thankfully not one of these.

    Ideally located in Kings Walk, just a minute’s walk from the Oracle Riverside, the restaurant enjoys a secluded and relaxing setting – ideal for a quiet or romantic meal.

    The service, unlike many Italian restaurants in particular, offers the perfect combination of attentiveness and charm. And the restaurant itself is traditionally but very tastefully designed and decorated.

    The a la carte menu offers a wide range of delights, and one of the best vegetarian selections in the town. The rigatoni is perhaps the pick of the pasta dishes whilst the pan-fried wild boar is arguably the best option meat-wise. A main course is priced between £7-£22, with starters averaging £6-7.

    The only slight criticism one might level at Mari e Monti is the limited and slightly unadventurous desert menu. That said deserts are delicious and well priced (average £4-5).

    If you’re looking for a mid priced meal, probably for two, good service and good food then you’d be hard pushed to find better.

    Dave Lamont

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  • 02Dec

    Address: Old Mill Lane, Bray SL6 2BG

    Telephone number: 01628 788500

    Website: http://www.caldesi.com/

    Date of visit: 28 November 2009

    Approximate cost per head: From £15.50 but think in terms of £50 for the a la carte

    Comments on wine list/beer: Excellent list. Some very good Italian by region

    Summary:
    Nearly every restaurant guide and review starts by asking why Giancarlo Caldesi opened a restaurant here when The Fat Duck, Hind Head and The Waterside Inn dominate the landscape. Ok we also have the Riverside Brassiere (Bray Marina) and The Royal Oak (Paley St). And they could be right.

    On the day we went, it was quite empty with about 4 tables being occupied.

    They have a set lunch at £15.50 for 2 courses. We ended up having 4 courses off the set lunch, had two bottles of Santa Maria (Veneto) @ £31 / bottle, drinks before the meal and coffee. The bill came to £210 for 4 including 12.5% service. Not bad at all.

    To start with, we had the antipasti which was essentially slices of  bresaola with a salad. For secondi, we had  pasta in a cunky tomato sauce and for the main dish, a chicken leg in a chilli gravy. All dishes were well presented and very nice. With the main dish, they offered spinach and sauté potatoes on the side. For desert, we had the tiramisu and pannacotta. This is good basic Italian Food. I like it.

    The restaurant is bright and tables are set apart with proper linen. We didn’t get a table cloth at The Walnut Tree, Hope and Anchor etc and they were about the same price.

    One minor note: The second bottle of Santa Maria was corked. As the waiter poured it straight into our existing glass (had wine in it) without offering a tasting, the aroma was diluted but then, I have been drinking wine for close to 40 years. The waiter could not detect the problem but the manager did.

    Eddie

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