Address: 85 Tenth Ave, (16th Street), New York, NY, USA
Telephone number: +1 212497 8090
Website: http://www.delposto.com
Date of visit: 12 October 2010
Price guide : $70 for 2 courses
Comments on wine and beer: Huge list, good selection of decent Italian and US wines. You can just about get a reasonable bottle from $70
Summary:
This is another “top end” NY (Italain) restaurant from the Batali-Bastianich team.
The architecture of this place is amazing. In the Zagat guide, it is described as a marble and mahogany palazzo. Like Per Se, the place was packed out. However, this is a much larger venue and is able to accommodate over a hundred diners in the main dining room.
The service was fine but not great. For example, we had to wait ages for our bread. When it arrived, it was a basket of warm bread served with butter and “pork fat”. We had to ask for olive oil as a dip.
The menu was an interesting one offering “degustation” of 5 courses at $95 or 7 courses at $125. Pairing of food and wine was also on offer at $105 plus. However, if you simply want a starter and/or a main course, it is $30 for any of the starters/antipasti/pasta and $40 for a main course.
The freebie from the chef consisted of 3 parts – a ball of chopped prosciutto mixed in some sauce and covered in bread crumbs, crispy wafer thin oven dried salmon and a gazpecho. It was a strange combination for an Italian but then very few restaurants serve authentic native food any more. The Gazpacho was slightly on the salty vinegary side because of a dose of capers.
For starters I had the deep fried squid whilst my family had the crab pasta. My sister told me the pasta was fantastic. I tasted a bit and found that it was crunchy because of the addition of finely chopped raw onions to the pasta. To me, it was a bit on the mild side as I would have added more chillies and seafood oil (heat crab shells and or prawn shells and or lobster shells covered in olive oil with a clove of garlic at 70 degrees centigrade for 20 minutes, filter and use ) to the pasta. My squid was fine. It was coated with polenta which makes it crunchier and less oily than bread crumbs. It was served with a mild oil infused with chillies and capers.
For main course, the family had the turbot and the Italian sea food stew. I had the gnocchi with shaven truffles.
My dish was a story on its own. The waiter advised early on, that the day’s special was fresh white truffles at $10 a gram on risotto or pasta. They serve 5 grams for a starter and 10 grams for a main course. I asked for it on spaghetti or rigatoni. After negotiating with the kitchen, the waiter informed me that the chef is only prepared to serve it over gnocchi, stuffed pasta (with ricotta) or risotto. I had to settle for gnocchi.
When it came, the gnocchi was tossed in butter and the waiter had a lump of truffle about the size of a small potato. He proceeded to shave the truffle and then asked me if that was enough. As I have no clue of what 10 grams of shaven truffle looks like, I said a bit more. When the bill came, apparently, I had 20 grams of truffle and we were charged $200. The gnocchi was priced at $40. So, the whole dish came to $240 – easily by a significant margin as the most expensive food I have ever eaten in the World. The previous record was €158 for Besse Chicken cooked in a pig’s bladder with truffles at Paul Bucouse’s restaurant in Lyon (2004). Someone else paid!
Being ungrateful, I have to say that it wasn’t that wonderful. When I had truffles before, I never had enough to pass judgement. My conclusion is that it is over rated. In fact, you get a far better deal using truffle oil and porcini mushrooms. Apparently the other two dishes ordered by my family were pretty good.
We had a bottle of Antinori Chianti Classical Reserva 2005 with the meal. At $75, it was apparently too cheap for them to offer to decant the wine. This was a mistake as the wine improved significantly when it was down to the last third. We would have enjoyed the wine better if it was allowed to air.
Well, I have to say that I thought that it was a rip off. If they serve 10grams with the main course, then offer 10 grams rather than their current approach. I didn’t get it with regards to the pasta. Why was I offered plain gnocchi and not plain pasta? You can buy fresh gnocchi for less than $5 in a supermarket – it was $40! Was there some secret and ultra expensive ingredient that I missed?
I think my family enjoyed their meal. My poor sister paid and I am not going to buy any more Mario Batali cookware or cookbooks.
E