Address: Stockcross, Near Newbury RG20 8UJ
Telephone: 01635 528770
Website: www.the-vineyard.co.uk
Date of visit: 18 October 2011
Costs: From £30 a head for 2 courses. Tasting Menu (lunch) £49, dinner (£99)
Wines and beer: Various beers at £5 per bottle. Exceptional wine list from £20 To £thousands at a reasonable markup. Very good US wines
Likes and dislikes: excellent service and food at a premium. I did not like the fact that the wine waiter took a medium size glass of wine to taste before he offered the wine to us. Please, let me be the judge, as they charge enough, I don’t want to lose 50mls.
Cuisine: Modern French
Summary:
The Vineyard is owned by Sir Peter Michael who owns several vineyards on the west coast of California. He makes an exception Pinot Noir which is sold at $100 plus.
The Vineyard was taken over by him around a decade ago and is now a hotel/spa complex.
The lobby is very spacious and has an array of deep armchairs. The bar has a wall lined with some serious American Wines. I noticed that there was no Screaming Eagle.
For lunch, there is a short tasting menu (£49) or a selection from the a la carte.
N – my accountant – went for the tasting menu. I had to follow suit as they would not serve the tasting menu unless the whole table went for it. Whilst we were waiting for the table to be ready, we had a Blue Moon (£5) each. This was like a cloudy Anchor Steam Beer (Ale) – very pleasant.
The dining room is on two floors with a balcony overlooking a conservatory sitting area. We were in the conservatory.
First up was shredded carrots covered with a carrot foam. It was dressed in a French dressing. I thought that it was quite nice. Next came a scallop on top of a scallop mousse. The scallop mousse tasted of nothing – bit like an egg white mousse. The sauce that came with it was mild. The next course was a couple of curled up fish (sole) fillets with the compulsory foam etc. This one was quite tasty.
Next we had confit of lamb which was a solid lump of loin served medium. I am not sure that it worked as it was obviously confited at low temperature. Other than salmon, I don’t think that any meat can be cofited medium – the texture is wrong. Next came an Apricot soufflé with Apricot ice cream served as a bar with a chocolate top. The soufflé has raspberries in it and came hot.
Throughout the meal, we were served lovely bread – rosemary, campagne etc. We didn’t have coffee but was still offered the petit fours – chocolate tart, apricot jelly like a Turkish delight and a chocolate praline.
We had a bottle of 2007 Ch Kasara Cabinet Sauvignon (£47.50) with the meal. Ch Kasra is a Lebanese wine. I met the owner at The International Wines and Spirits Exhibition 2 years ago when he was trying to get an importer. Lebanese wines were very good vale but unfortunately, Ch Musar is now becoming very popular in the US and Asia. As a result it is nowselling at well over £20 a bottle. The wine list here has several 70s Ch Musar at over £300 a bottle. Last year I opened a vertical of late 70s, early 80s Ch Musar at a tasting and some of the wines were certainly over the peak. I hate to think what the 70s are like. Tanners were selling them at around £75 a bottle.
Overall, I thought that it was a good meal (just under £150 for two) but the new chef (Daniel Galmiche) is not as good as the previous chef who had two Michelin Stars. The presentation is as good as ever but the seasoning is not quite there. Although The 2012 Good Food Guide gave this place a higher mark (6) than The Vanilla Pod (5), I think that The Vanilla Pod (see October 6th 2011) is better for around the same amount of money.
E
PS I have just noticed that Michael Winner published an article on The Vineyard on Sunday 16 October in The Sunday Times with fairly similar views.