Address: Sonning-on-Thames, Berkshire. RG4 6TN (The French is sited on both sides of the B478 by the Thames).
Telephone number: 0118 9692204
Website: http://www.thefrenchhorn.co.uk/about.htm
Date of visit: 24 April 2011
Approximate cost per head: £50 onwards. £55.65 for the set lunch on Sundays and Bank Holidays.
Comments on wine list/beer: Blue ribbon list with all the classics. Hefty mark-up. Allow £100 for a decent bottle.
Cuisine: old fashion French and British food
Summary:
This restaurant is in the Michelin Guide but it is not starred. When I was a poor undergraduate at Reading University, I dreamed about eating at The French Horn. My first meal there – business lunch – meet everyone of my expectations.
I have been back many times (last reviewed on 15 October 2009). I rate this as one of the best restaurant in the UK. Its location is unbeatable – the views are stunning even when it is dark. The service has always been friendly and not patronising. The food is good – the asparagus, grilled Dover sole, the roast duck are as good as it comes. The wine list is long and goes from just under £30 a bottle to several thousands. The main problems from a restaurant inspector’s view points are: they are not too innovative. It has been more or less the same menu for the past forty years plus. They serve meat/fish straight onto the plate and vegetables are served on the side so plate decoration/arrangement is minimal.
As you enter, there is a main bar with a log fire – it is even lit during the summer to roast the ducks which are then crisped up in a hot oven before it is served. The bar has a huge selection of liquors and malt whiskies. The restaurant is house next to the bar in an extension which has huge and continuous windows to over look The Thames, willow trees and lawns. They have a French Horn hung up in the bar.
Over seeing the services are Michael and Elaine Emmanuel– brother and sister who owned the place together with their parents and Manuel the Maitre’ D (for the past 30 years). I understood that Michael and Elaine’s grandparents used to own the Wheelers in London – before it became a chain.
For Sunday lunch they offered a 3 course set meal at £55.65 per head –all the favourites from the a la carte are there. Gratuity included in the price. During weekdays, the set lunch is significantly cheaper but without the blockbusters.
This time we were a crowd so I ordered a bottle of Pouilly Fuisse 2009 (£39) and a bottle of Brouilly 2008 (£34.85). Both at the bottom end of their range. It was not that I am extra mean but out of a party of 7, two doesn’t drink and I was the only serious drinker and I am the driver. The wines were totally adequate for the day.
For starters, we ordered asparagus, smoke salmon, smoke salmon with egg Benedict, scampi and melon with port. Everything was good. A special mention about the asparagus (thick and flavoursome) and the scampi – real Dublin Bay prawns coated in breadcrumbs, deep fried.
For main courses, we ordered the duck, Dover soles – grilled and cooked with a mango and banana sauce, and roast chicken. By the way, the Dover sole here is about twice the size of what you normally get in a restaurant. You also get half a duck or half a chicken. For vegetables, we were offered, caluliflower cheese, spinach with a hint of nutmeg and potato dauphinois. We also had a portion of french fries – special request. The french fries here is ok – nothing special. Apparently, the sole with a banana and mango sauce was very pleasant and interesting.
It was easily a 3 hour plus lunch with canapés in the vendetta before lunch, a quick walk in the grounds in between mains and desserts and back to the veranda for petit fours and coffee.
By the way if you don’t fancy driving after the wine and food, stay the night as The French Horn is also a hotel at very reasonable rates – no gym or swimming pool.
If you want to impress someone (business or personal), this is THE place to come.
E