Address: Bennett End, Radnage Nr Stokenchurch (A40), Bucks HP14 4EB
Telephone number: 01494 483 273
Website: www.thethreehorseshoes.net
Date of visit: 18 November 2010
Approximate cost per head: around £30 for 2 courses with the a la carte menu. Set lunch £12.50 for 2 courses or £17.50 for 3 courses.
Comments on wine list/beer: Brakspear and Rebellion on tap, local cider. Simple wine list at reasonable price.
Cuisine: Modern British
Summary:
This pub has been listed as a Bib Gourmand (good food at reasonable) price in the Michelin Guide for 2 years running. It is also in the Good Food Guide and Good Pub Guide.
This is another place that is down a single track country lane. I would not recommend that you drive in the dark round here after a few alcoholic drinks. There are a couple of places where 2 cars can pass – just. However, the road is very bendy and you are talking about 50 yards plus between these “double spaces”. One of you will have to reverse in the dark!
When you get there, the Pub has a nice car park with views over open countryside.
Inside the building, there is a drinks area and a restaurant housed in a “newer” extension that is bright and spacious.
The couple next to me ordered the set lunch of chicken liver pate followed by fish and chips from the set lunch menu. They seemed to enjoy their food and the portions looked quite generous.
I had the scallops with pork belly (£9.50) followed by the ham, egg and triple cooked chips (£11). I also had half a pint of cider (£1.90) and a large of Bordeaux (£7.25) – 250ml of 2005 Ch La Croix. The cider was dry and not a lot of taste to it. The red wine was fine.
The scallops (3) were served on a square glass plate with a croquette of bread crumbed pork belly cut diagonally in a lovely presentation. Now, the pork croquette is a clever invention. Essentially, lean pork belly is poached, then allowed to cool in béchamel sauce in the fridge. When the dish solidified, chunks are cut out, bread crumbed and deep fried. Once you cut into it, the béchamel sauce will run – similar to a soft boiled egg. It was a great dish.
The ham, egg and triple cooked chips was also a fine dish but the chips were never triple cooked. Instead, I had what I called Rubic Cube chips. Fat chips are cut into the same size and then you pile 3 cooked chips on top of 3 chips at 90 degrees. You then pile (at 90 degrees) another 3 chips on top again. You end up getting a symmetrical cube of 9 chips. I first came across this 10 years ago at Le Manoir aux Quat Saisons when the kitchen produced it as a special one off for a young child. I can only say that rubic cube chips is presentation taking priority over taste. The problem is that if the chips are hard, they won’t stay on top of each other and so you can only pile “softish” chips like this on top of each other
You can’t pile triple cooked chips on top of each other because the chips had to be boiled until they start to disintegrate. They are then dried and deep fried first at 130 degrees centigrade, dripped and cooled, and then deep fried again at 190 degrees centigrade. So, every triple cooked chip is different in shape and the edges are serrated.
Sorry, but I have eaten triple cooked chips at The Hind Head, The Royal Oak, The Hand and Flower etc and I also make it regularly so I know what I am talking about.
By the way, the 2 fried eggs had lovely soft yolk and the two slices of ham were a la plancha.
It was a good meal other than the “wrong” chips. If I had known, I would have gone for the fish and chips. The chips with the fish were French Fries and not Rubic Cube Chips.
E