Address: 224 Piccadilly London W1J (HP
Telephone number: 02079300488
Website: www.criterionrestaurant.com
Date of visit: 17 March
Approximate cost per head for 2 courses: set meal £16.95 for 2 courses, £19.95 for 3 courses (restricted time – lunch, before 7pm and after 10pm). A la carte £30 plus
Comments on wine list/beer: Interesting list. You can pay serious money or pick up a reasonable bottle for £25. Very high markup.
Summary:
I went with my cousin who has just arrived from Singapore. It was St Patrick’s day and all the pubs that display anything Irish are bursting at the seam.
We were due to meet at the Roundhouse (Garrick St). However it was closed for refurbishment.
After hitting an non Irish pub and had some awful Green King beer, we arrived at the Criterion.
The Criterion is housed in a beautiful hall approximately 100 years old. The ceiling is fantastic. It is now under the management of Marco Pierre White. 224 Piccadilly is sited about 20 meters from EROS.
The restaurant was about half full with most of the diners doing a pre-theatre meal. The cut off time is 7pm – we just missed it.
We ordered foie gras and scallops to start with followed by rib eye steak and a pork combination (loin and belly). The whole lot was washed down with a bottle of 2005 Salice Salentino reserve at £24. I happened to know that you can get the 2007 reserva for around £6 a bottle (trade price) from Enotria so the mark up here is around 300-400%. We had tap water that was delivered with a smile.
The foie gras (£11.50) was pate rather than slices of liver. From the look of it, its duck rather than goose. The king scallops with coral (£13) were reasonably sized and you get 3 with a lovely mushy black pudding as well as a piece of crispy black pudding.
The main courses were a bit disappointing – size not taste. The steak (£20.50) was served with mash potato and green beans. The steak was about 6ozs and the mash and beans were served in a small ramekin. Now I normally expect some sauce or something wet to go with the mash potato but there were nothing, not even a small salad with dressing.
My pork (£21) was served on a rectangular plate with a piece of belly of pork in the middle, sitting on a spoonful of mash potato. The pork was the size of a large stamp. The loin (6 thin pieces) were about the size of a 50p coin. There were also 2 bits of green beans and two “large” pieces of crackling, arranged like helicopter blades on top of the pork belly. I ate the lot in less than 2 minutes.
Looking around, I noticed that our neighbours who had the set meal were offered fairly decent portions. One had a whole skate wing and the other fish and chips – the fish was bigger than everything on my plate put together and there was a big pile of chips. As our main courses were more expensive than the 3 course set meal, I think that a bit more vegetable and potato would improve the value but then it would probably destroy the presentation.
Our conclusion is that the food was fine and the service was very good. You get a nice basket of bread as soon as you sit down. BUT, the set meal is BETTER value.
Eddie