Address: 83 Fairfax Road, Swiss Cottage, London NW6 4DY
Parking: Plenty of metered parking on Fairfax Road
Telephone: 020 7328 5314
Website: http://www.singaporegarden.co.uk/
Date of visit: 22 February 2012
Costs: Around £20 a head for a couple of courses
Wines and beer: Long wine list from around £20. Tiger Beer £3.90 a bottle
Likes and dislikes: Food is fine, prices are good except for the beer.
Cuisine: Singaporean, Malaysian, Chinese (Cantonese and Tiew Chow)
Summary:
Singapore Restaurant is an Iconic restaurant that has been around for nearly 50 years. It has been on my list of must visit restaurants for years.
In the Good Food Guide and Time Out, it is classified as a SE Asian restaurant.
The restaurant has a 60s Art Deco type interior. It is quite big and is divided into 2 halves. There are outside seating. The waitresses were all dressed in traditional Malaysian costumes.
I was surprised to see that the menu is a mixture of Chinese and Singaporean/Malaysian dishes; chilli crab, fried kway tiuw, laksa, beef rendang etc. The Chinese part is interesting as they offered a few Tiew Chow dishes (unusual in the UK) besides the usual crispy duck and other Cantonese dishes. Tiew Chow or Hakka people are Southern Chinese and a lot of them immigrated to Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia several generations ago.
I went for the kway tiuw (£8.70) which they claim is their signature dish. I was glad to see that it is the authentic brown version and not the yellow curried version that Hong Kong Chinese restaurants serve up. On top of this, I also went for the braised pig’s trotters Tew Chow style.
The fried kway tiew is cooked very similar to dry fried ho fun in sense that they both use ho fun (flat rice noodle) as a base and the sauce is absorbed by the ho fun. There should be no liquid. In additional to the taste of soy sauce, the kway tiew should offer a slightly sweet and hot chilli kick. The bits that came with it are also different. In dry fried, beef is use. In kway tiew, fish cake and prawns are used. The other ingredients in both dishes are bean sprouts and spring onions. The fried kway tiew on offer here was fine but I found it too mild and sweet.
The braised pig’s trotter (£10.20) came in a brown sauce – star anise, sugar and soy – identical to that used to “red” braise pork butts in Shanghainese restaurants – hardly any in the UK. There is a pseudo one in Oxford.
I was slightly disappointed as the trotter was all bone and skin with very little meat. OK, the bottom half of the trotter is always like that but the top half is meatier as used by the French in stuffed trotters.
The restaurant was about 20% full and most of the customers are non Chinese. I think the dishes here are not Anglicised but certainly it has been adjusted to suit the western palate.
In my view, nearly all iconic non European Restaurants in guides are not truly authentic as the UK palate in the 60s and 70s were not that adventurous – eating out was all about steak and prawn cocktail. In the late 70s, I went with friends to what was supposed to be the first Chinese Restaurant in London on Commercial Road. It was packed. The food was horrible. Everything was sweet and came with gravy.
Lets be clear, the food here is fine but it is not that special to me. I have to admit that I was looking for a chilli hit!
Tiger beer at £3.90 for 300ml was a bit steep as you can buy a case (24 bottles) at Wing Yip supermarket (Edgeware Road) for just over £20.
E