Address: Kelston Road, Little Bedwyn, Marlborough, SN8 3JP
Parking: outside on the road
Telephone: 01672 870871
Website: http://theharrowatlittlebedwyn.com/
Date of visit: 27 April 2012
Costs: From £30 (set lunch) Allow £50 for 2 courses (a la carte). Tasting menu £50, another £25 when paired with 4 wines.
Wines and beer: Astonishing wine list, a lot of top wines available by the glass, pairing by the glass with most courses is available. Very reasonable mark up.
Likes and dislikes: Top marks for set up – proper hand towels in the toilet, table cloths, spacing, ambience etc – food, wines and service. Need I say more.
Cuisine: Modern British – Haute Cuisine
Summary:
The Harrow is position in a small village sandwiched between Hungerford and Marlborough. It was AA’s restaurant of the year in 2011, has a Michelin star and is highly rated in The Good Food Guide.
The place is not easy to find as all guides list it just as Little Bedwyn but then Little Bedwyn has several streets and the postal code covered an area – sat nev will just direct you to the area rather than to the restaurant. It’s situated about 30 meters from the High Street end of Kelston Road but that is useless information as the street signs are not easily visible.
The place is divided into two dining rooms with a total capacity of about 40 covers.
I was impressed with the place as I walked in, it had nice leather chairs with high backs and pristine table cloths. There were about 20 cases of Fulton Road lining the corridor on the way to the loo. On the other side of the corridor, the walls were lined with all sorts of accolades.
Fulton Road is a snooty little winery in Central Ortega. It is famous for its Pinot Noir and is rated as one of New Zealand’s top Pinot. I drove there for a tasting from Queenstown in 2005. Their Pinot had a raspberry under taste. It is fairly good wine but unfortunately, very few NZ wines are made for laying down as they all have screw tops. Even Gibson Valley used screw top for their top reserva (nearly £80 a bottle for the 2001 in 2005)
I went for the tasting menu (£50) paired with wine (another £25).
This was what I have had to eat:
Gazpacho
This was served in a Villeroy and Boch coffee cup on a wavy dish. What was interesting was that they have introduced water melon into the recipe and so you get a spicy and sweet taste – very interesting. I am going to copy this.
Fresh Shrimp Roll – Ch Lestrille Capmartin Bordeaux Blanc 2009
This was in fact a prawn cocktail made with a chilli jam sauce wrapped in soft rice paper. I am not sure if it worked as the texture is the same – wrap, shrimps etc. The shrimps were also a bit tasteless and I think that if the chef had used brown shrimps, it would have worked better. It was served in a long dish, similar to a corn on the cob dish with streaks of chilli jam.
Bordeaux whites tend to be a blend of sauvignon blanc and semillion. The blend wors by taking away the “gooseberry” taste of sauvignon blanc and make the wine less acid. This wine works well with cold seafood.
Wild Line Caught Sea Bass – Heggies Eden Valley Chardonnay 2010
Let’s start with the wine. It was very fresh and is probably one of these Australian Chardnnay that had never seen an oak barrel. I am not sure that I like this type of Chardonnay as it is made for immediate consumption. Give me an old fashion White Burgundy (Chardonnay) any time.
The sea bass was a decent size chunk of fish. This was fried properly so the skin is crisp. It was served on a creamy sauce made with morel mushroom and wild garlic. To add to the visual presentation, pieces of wilted spinach were added. The morels were sliced horizontally. This was a top dish.
Roe Venison with black pudding – Yalumba The Cigar Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
I like Yalumba wines and is a fan of the signature series. The wine served here is another one of these designer wines for early drinking – no wood. At best, the wine is around 24 months old but it had no tannin. The nose was good and it was quite soft like a merlot.
The venison were three little cylinders of meat served red in the middle. It came sitting on a piece of crisp black pudding that sat on a rosti potato and under this was a pile of carrots, peas and courgettes. Gravy was served on the side. It was amazing to look at as the dish came as a stack. The carrots and courgettes were cut into little round balls, the same size as the peas. The gravy was juice from a roast and was not over reduced. Top marks.
Pre- Dessert : Boiled Egg
This is a bit of Heston Blumenthall. The egg is made from mash mellow and the yolk (inside), some form of mango custard. The toast on the side was a piece of short bread. It tasted all right – please note that I am not a dessert fan.
Mini Chocolate Platter – Berton Vineyard Botrytis Semillon 2009
This was an amazing dish with a “radioactive logo” smeared onto the plate which the bits of dessert sat on. The smears were Chantilly cream, raspberry purée and mango purée. I had brownie, cake, milk, lollipop, nugget – all made from some form of chocolate and a round ball of raspberry sorbet. They were all very good.
The Australian Botrytis Semillion was clean and sweet, very similar to a Sauternes. However, most Australian Botrytis do not have the depth of flavour and the concentration that a French Sauternes will provide.
For £50 + £25, I think that it was very reasonable. The food was very good except the shrimp roll. Service was also tip top and the bread was excellent. I only wish that they offered a more expensive pairing as an alternative as they did have some serious wines by the glass.
E